Cheery And Cheer: Travelogue - Spain

Monday, October 12, 2015

Travelogue - Spain - Part Two

After our day and a half in Toledo, we headed north of Madrid to Avila (accent over the first A). This is a completely walled town, a turreted wall with 88 perfect towers, a wall that was built in 1069 AD and rebuilt in parts in the 12th century. A wall about 9 feet thick (3 meters) and 36 feet high (12 meters) on average. We were able to walk on the top of the wall about half way around (it's about a mile and a half long). In that town we ate lunch, walked the wall and explored many streets, churches and a few shops.

Looking back at Avila as we got on the highway.

Next stop: Segovia

The foremost symbol of Segovia is the ancient Roman Aqueduct built in about 1 AD - that's amazing! Many of the arches were rebuilt in the 1500s after being destroyed by Moors in 1072. I am fascinated at the engineering strength of arch stones. I loved the whole city - it also has a glorious Cathedral and Alcazar - we explored both of those as well. One thing I haven't mentioned is that almost all the towns we visited have what they call Jewish quarters or sector. The Jews were expelled from Spain in the 1500s but their neighborhoods and influence remain and they have been some of the loveliest areas in each town we have explored. Segovia has one as well.

Here we are following an elderly gentleman in to the Jewish quarter.

The view of the Cathedral on a Sunday morning from our hotel window. The helium balloons were a nice surprise.

And there was hardly a soul in the main plaza below.

Segovia is/was a walled city as well (not all of it is still intact) and this Alcazar was a fortress. You can't see in this pic and I tried to take one but it turned out too dark but there is a very deep moat once filled with water behind the first wall that surrounds it - it was really neat. The inside is part military/chemistry museum, church and former sumptuous living areas.

I loved this tile wainscoting in one of the dining areas inside.

Walking on top of the turrets

View of the Cathedral and old city from the Alcazar.

Next stop: Madrid

We spent three nights in this large city. We arrived in the afternoon so we immediately went and toured the large Cathedral and the Palace as well.

Inside the Cathedral

Picture of the Royal Palace (no pics allowed inside)

The Cathedral as seen from the Palace - they are opposite each other on this huge piece of property that also includes a very large and lovely park.

Night Color

In the Botanical Gardens observing the wonderful Dahlia display above and below

Gorgeous living wall.

We found a great place to eat lunch down a little narrow street called Matilda's. It was so cute and tiny inside; only 6 tables and they offered three starters, three main dishes, and three desserts only to choose from as well as all the usual drinks. We had the delicious salad with lots of seeds including sesame (note: do this again, sesame seeds) and Dan had the owners's (and chef's) grandmother's meatballs and I had pumpkin puree soup. Good bread too.

Walking at the very large (blocks and blocks) city park.

Detail from a painting at the fabulous Thyssen Bornemisza Museum. This is one of the best museums I've ever visited; I liked it better than the Prado in Madrid which was also wonderful. The Thyssen has all the world masters, the Spaniards, as well as many American artists such as Andrew Wyeth, John Singer Sargent and Childe Hassam. Dan and I went together and then I went back for a couple more hours on my own because I needed more time to take it all in again.

Stalking another Mini Schnauzer into a pharmacy. His master was turned around so she didn't notice me following her in.

Above and below - we went to a movie one night after dinner and got out at near midnight. This line around the block of youngsters was waiting for a club to just open its doors.

Dan and I catching up on some laundry.

Empanadas - so good! Because I like to look at food and hope you do too, I've included many pictures below of beautiful displays of food at the incredible food market in the center of Madrid. We ate many yummy things there for lunch one day.

Weird meat and body parts.

Next and final stop: Barcelona

We dropped our car in Madrid and took the train to Barcelona where we stayed three nights as well. If I had to choose between the two large cities where we spent the most time now that I have been to both, Barcelona would be my favorite. I would go back there in a minute! What was a surprise to me is that all the road signage, street names, ads and most menus were not in Spanish but rather in Catalan, which is the main language there. I wasn't aware of this but fortunately, many people could also speak Spanish too when I spoke to them.

First thing we did in each city we visited, and Barcelona was no exception, was to seek out the grand cathedral. I love the smell of ancient stone and incense that permeates from the walls not just in cathedrals but in the humble churches too. I've said it before; I wish Yankee Candle would make a scent called "Ancient Catholic Church". I'd burn it when I needed a Europe fix.

And the largest plaza - square ..

And as many churches as possible.

This street is in the Gothic area of Barcelona, my favorite area. It's dark, narrow cobbled streets are full of cool and unique shops and then laundry hanging from the flats above. We stumbled on to an amazing shoe store where the astounding array of color just drew me in. The Kokua ballet flat shoe store. I will add one picture but that store and my time in there will be a post by itself - so fun!!

Heading to the sea before dinner in Barceloneta, a community of shops and flats at the harbor.

Our only beach time while in Spain.

Heading to the El Born section of the city to the Picasso Museum and other sites.

Below, we watched a raucous parade of unusual marching and singing bands and giant puppet people hoisted up representing whom, we couldn't figure out. These parades continued for two days and caused some traffic snarls and we never did find out what was being celebrated other than they had a big election going on the day following.

The Palau de La Musica (Concert Hall) was built in 1905 and it is lit during the day by just natural light through that amazing ceiling. And looks at the tiled columns. The building is just stunning from the ceiling down to the concert seats.

Walking to our hotel one night I took a picture of a wonderful ceiling in a flat on the street.

Building designed by the one time controversial architect Antoni Gaudi. In his designs, no wall or line is ever straight. He is best known for the cathedral called the Sagrada Familia, still unfinished and weirdly stunning. We visited a couple buildings downtown he designed and then the Park Guell (it made me think of Dr. Suess too), and the Sagrada Familia.